Ownership Cost for 2011 Chevrolet Volt Base
Estimated: $35136 over the next 5 years
| Year 1 | Year 2 | Year 3 | Year 4 | Year 5 | Total | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Depreciation | $2695 | $1294 | $1132 | $1024 | $916 | $7061 |
| Insurance | $1807 | $1870 | $1935 | $2003 | $2073 | $9688 |
| Fuel | $422 | $434 | $449 | $467 | $488 | $2260 |
| Maintenance | $2565 | $1725 | $1075 | $1125 | $2200 | $8690 |
| Repairs | $908 | $1075 | $1224 | $1345 | $1549 | $6101 |
| Taxes & Fees | $900 | $900 | $900 | $900 | $900 | $1333 |
| Total Ownership Costs | $9297 | $6501 | $5947 | $6049 | $7343 | $35136 |
| Model year | COMPONENT | Complaint |
| 2013 | POWER TRAIN | I LEASED A NEW 2013 VOLT ON FRIDAY AND DROVE IT TO WORK AND HOME ON MONDAY. THE BATTERY DISPLAY SHOWED IT WAS AT MINIMUM, ZERO MILES REMAINING. THE VOLT WAS RUNNING WITH THE INTERNAL COMBUSTION ENGINE. AS I PULLED OUT OF A PARKING LOT, "їPROPULSION POWER IS REDUCED"ќ, "їENGINE NOT AVAILABLE"ќ, AND "SERVICE STABILITRAC" DISPLAYED ON THE DRIVER INFORMATION CENTER. AFTER GOING ABOUT 500 FEET, I STOPPED AT AN INTERSECTION TO MAKE A LEFT TURN AND THE VOLT STALLED. I TURNED ON THE FLASHERS AND ATTEMPTED TO RESTORE POWER BY PRESSING THE BRAKE AND THE POWER BUTTON. THE DISPLAYS LIT UP BUT THE INSTRUMENT CLUSTER CONTINUED TO DISPLAY "їINITIALIZING-WAIT TO SHIFT"ќ. I TURNED THE VOLT OFF BY PRESSING THE POWER BUTTON AGAIN AND ATTEMPTED TO RESTORE POWER SEVERAL TIMES WITH THE SAME RESULT. CARS BEHIND ME WERE ATTEMPTING TO PULL AROUND ON THE LEFT SIDE BUT WERE BLOCKED BY CARS TURNING ONTO THE TWO-LANE STREET. I PUSHED THE ON-STAR BUTTON AND REQUESTED ASSISTANCE. SOON, A VOLT SPECIALIST CAME ON THE LINE AND SAID SHE SUSPECTED THE SECURITY SYSTEM OR THE 12V BATTERY. SHE HAD ME TURN EVERYTHING OFF AND WALK 200 FEET FROM THE CAR. WHEN I RETURNED AND TRIED TO START THE VOLT, IT STARTED BRIEFLY BUT SHUT DOWN. SHE SAID THE 12V BATTERY MIGHT BE LOW AND THEY WOULD HAVE THE TOW TRUCK DRIVER BRING BOOSTER CABLES TO CHARGE THE BATTERY. I HAD MANAGED TO PUSH THE VOLT TO THE CURB AND GOT SOME CABLES TO BOOST IT. THE VOLT INITIALIZED AND THE DISPLAYS LOOKED NORMAL. I DROVE TO THE NEXT INTERSECTION AND STOPPED FOR THE LIGHT. WHEN THE LIGHT CHANGED, IT STALLED AGAIN. I WAS ABLE TO CONTINUE TO MY HOUSE ON BATTERY POWER BUT IT WOULD NOT GO UP THE SLOPE OF THE DRIVEWAY. I TRIED TO CHARGE IT BUT THE CHARGE CYCLE WOULD NOT START. THE NEXT MORNING, IT HAD "їPLUG IN TO CHARGE" LIGHT ON. I STARTED THE CHARGE CYCLE. IT GOES TO THE DEALER TONIGHT. *TR |
| 2011 | WHEELS | THIS PROBLEM APPEARS TO BE A SAFETY ISSUE THAT I'M CONCERNED MAY IMPACT OTHER VOLTS. HERE'S THE BACKGROUND. ON SUNDAY AFTERNOON, I WAS PULLING INTO MY GARAGE AT A VERY SLOW RATE AND GOT HALFWAY THROUGH WHEN I HEARD A LOUD 'CRUNCHING' SOUND. I GOT OUT WONDERING WHAT THE THE NOISE WAS AND SAW THAT THE FRONT DRIVER'S SIDE OF THE CAR DOWN AND DIRECTLY SITTING ON THE TIRE. THE CONTROL ARM OR STRUT OR WHATEVER YOU CALL IT HAD SEEMINGLY COLLAPSED. LOOKING MORE CLOSELY, IT LOOKED LIKE THE WHEEL HAD PRACTICALLY COME OFF. GREASE WAS DRIPPING ONTO THE DRIVEWAY FROM UNDERNEATH. THE DEALER HAS NOW REPAIRED THE PROBLEM AND CLAIMS IT WAS A BAD BOLT, HOWEVER I AM NOT CONFIDENT THAT SUCH A MAJOR MANUFACTURING FLAW CAN BE SO EASILY DISMISSED. *TR |
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