Ownership Cost for 2006 Kia Optima LX
Estimated: $34104 over the next 5 years
| Year 1 | Year 2 | Year 3 | Year 4 | Year 5 | Total | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Depreciation | $1412 | $678 | $593 | $537 | $480 | $3700 |
| Insurance | $1498 | $1551 | $1605 | $1661 | $1719 | $8034 |
| Fuel | $1345 | $1385 | $1434 | $1491 | $1558 | $7213 |
| Maintenance | $2763 | $1670 | $876 | $512 | $2291 | $8112 |
| Repairs | $977 | $1138 | $1298 | $1417 | $1627 | $6457 |
| Taxes & Fees | $396 | $396 | $396 | $396 | $396 | $587 |
| Total Ownership Costs | $8392 | $6467 | $5863 | $5655 | $7727 | $34104 |
| Model year | COMPONENT | Complaint |
| 2002 | ELECTRICAL SYSTEM | WE HAVE HAD ONGOING PROBLEMS WITH A 2002 KIA OPTIMA, INCLUDING TIRE WEAR, BRAKE PROBLEMS, ELECTRICAL ISSUES, EXCESSIVE BATTERY WEAR. THIS WEEK WE WERE NOTIFIED BY OUR AUTO SHOP THAT THERE IS EXCESSIVE RUST ON THE SUBFRAME AND THAT A RECALL EXISTS FOR THIS CONDITION. WHEN I CONTACTED BOTH OUR LOCAL DEALER AND KIA CORPORATE, I WAS TOLD THAT THIS PARTICULAR VIN IS NOT INCLUDED IN THE RECALL, ALTHOUGH THE RECALL CLEARLY STATES THAT IT DOES MEET THE PARAMETERS. UPON FURTHER RESEARCH, IT APPEARS THAT MANY OTHERS HAVE EXPERIENCED THE SAME PROBLEMS AND BEEN GIVEN THE SAME INFORMATION. CURRENTLY, WE ARE LEFT WITH A CAR THAT IS A DANGER TO DRIVE AND ENORMOUS PERSONAL EXPENSE TO RESOLVE. *TR |
| 2006 | FUEL SYSTEM, GASOLINE:STORAGE:TANK ASSEMBLY:FILLER PIPE AND CAP | I BOUGHT A NEW 2006 KIA OPTIMA EX IN APR 2006. SEPT 2006 THE KEY FOBS QUIT WORKING AND THE PASS SIDE BACK SEAT DOES NOT SECURE ITSELF IN PLACE AT THE BOTTOM OF THE SEAT AND STAY/TAKEN TO A DEALERSHIP AND FIXED. JULY 2007, THE KEY FOB AGAIN QUIT WORKING/TAKEN TO THE DEALERSHIP AND I WAS TOLD A TSB WAS OUT ON THIS PROBLEM AND THEY WOULD REPLACE THE RECEIVER WHICH WAS DONE. NOV 2007 AFTER THE TSB SUPPOSEDLY WAS TAKEN CARE OF, AGAIN THE KEY FOB QUITS WORKING/DEALERSHIP HAS AGAIN REPROGRAMMED TO WORK AGAIN AND CURRENTLY THEY CONTINUE TO WORK. THIS CAR HANDLES EXTREMELY POORLY AND IN MY OPINION IS A SAFETY RISK. IT SEEMS TO HAVE A PRETTY LOOSE SUSPENSION AND A LOT OF SWAYING WHEN DRIVING. THE CAR PULLS HARD TO THE LEFT CAUSING ONE TO HAVE TO HOLD THE STEERING WHEEL TIGHT TO KEEP IT FROM TAKING NEARLY A 45 DEGREE LEFT TURN WHILE DRIVING. WHEN APPLYING THE BRAKES, THE CAR PULLS BOTH LEFT AND RIGHT/USUALLY LEFT. WHEN DRIVING OVER A SMOOTH DIP IN THE ROAD, IT FEELS THE FRONT TIRES ACTUALLY LEAVE THE GROUND SLIGHTLY CAUSING THE STEERING WHEEL TO VIBRATE RIGHT/LEFT QUICKLY. THIS VEHICLE ALSO HANDLES EXTREMELY POORLY ON ICY ROADS. THIS IS WITHOUT ANY QUESTION THE WORST HANDLING VEHICLE I HAVE EVER DRIVEN...CONCERNS ME AS I DRIVE ON THE HIGHWAY ABOUT 35 MILES TO WORK ONE WAY DAILY, AND DRIVE IN WINDY AS WELL AS SNOW AND ICY CONDITIONS FAIRLY FREQUENTLY. AT ABOUT 15,000 MILES, THE LATCH ON THE GAS DOOR DOESN'T WANT TO STAY CLOSED AFTER YOU FUEL UP AND THE ELECTRONICS THAT OPERATE THE SIDE VIEW MIRRORS INTERMITTENTLY DO NOT WORK. FEB 2008, MY CAR REACHED 30,000 MILES AND WHEN WASHING IT LAST WEEK, I NOTED AN AREA OF PAINT PEELING OFF ON THE DRIVER'S SIDE DOOR TRIM (BLACK), AS WELL AS THE CHROME PAINT STARTING TO BUBBLE. I TOOK PICTURES OF BOTH OF THESE AREAS. SINCE DRIVING THIS CAR OFF THE SHOWROOM FLOOR, IT HAS BEEN GARAGED AT BOTH WORK AND HOME. LAST WEEK (FEB 2008), DRIVER'S SIDE SEATBELT QUIT RETRACTING. *TR |
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